First is Iceland.
Except for the fact that it is in the Atlantic Ocean, Iceland is a geography unlike anything I have seen before. There are few trees, miles and miles of open land, mountains, active volcanoes, fields of volcanic debris and rivers and hot pots of bubbling, boiling geothermal water, incredible waterfalls and black sand beaches. In the few days we spent in Reykjavik and some of the surrounding countryside, we got a taste of it.
It's summer. I brought layers. I didn't bring my down jacket and gloves. I should have. Average temperature was around 50 degrees but with a very stiff wind. It rained some. I now own a a very fashionable Icelandic 66 degrees North brand hat. It was my best friend.
We flew in very early the first day and explored Reykjavik. All of Iceland has 320,000 people and 200,000 live in Reykjavik. This is a small city without massive traffic issues and full of summer tourists. Everyone speaks English and two or three more languages. Since the economic collapse in 2008, more and more of the citizens are in tourist service industries. We flew in the day after Iceland beat England in Copa Europe football and made it to the final 8. First time ever. Too bad we can't be there for the next game against France on Sunday. It will be a huge outdoor party downtown in a country that is far enough north that the sun never really sets at this time of year. Very disorienting.
We were not sure where to start to explore the country so we decided to take a couple of full day tours: National park, amazing Gullfoss waterfall, the Strokker geyser and a swim in a thermal pool on one day.
Strokker Geyser before the blow
Part of the Gullfoss Waterfall
Hiking on a glacier
Ice Cave
The third day we rented a car and headed out to explore on our own. We drove about 45 minutes out to a town that has an hour long hike up through a rift valley to a thermal river where we changed into bathing suits and soaked in the bubbling hot stream for over an hour. The hike down was one of the most relaxing hike I've ever taken. We drove along the coast past black sand beaches and moss covered moonscape lava fields and ended at the famous Blue Lagoon spa where we swam in the large outdoor pool filled with bluish white natural water from the underground thermal springs. It was fine but it couldn't match the thermal river. Plus the river was free and the Blue Lagoon cost almost $100 each.
Soaking in 102 degree creek
The wooden walkway and changing area by the thermal creek
Things to know about Iceland:
- It is very expensive to eat here. Just about everything but fish and lamb and dairy is imported. A simple breakfast of eggs, toast and tea for one and oatmeal and a latte for the other was $35.
- Puffin and whale are specialties. We opted for the fish and chips food truck.
- The people are welcoming and friendly.
- They are crazy happy about their football team's success. Go Iceland!
- It's windy often.
- Summer means 45-50 degrees and wind. Some days it was colder.
- If light prevents you from sleeping, bring an eye shade.
- They make a bread here with volcanic ash. It takes like ciabatta but is black.
- Iceland seems to hold its leaders accountable. They have a new president after the old one got named in the Panama Papers.
- This is a country where geology is alive and in your face. There are active volcanoes, geothermal activity everywhere and regular earthquakes.
- A town we visited has an exhibit where you can straddle the North American and Europe tectonic plates. Cool.
- All energy in Iceland comes from renewable resources. Hot water taken from the ground is piped by thermal plants directly into all homes for heating.
- Icelandic is a very difficult language to pronounce. Very.
- It is very easy to drive in Iceland and the rental companies give you an amazing GPS.
- All over Reykjavik there is crazy good graffiti art.
Stopping over in Iceland was an after thought. It turned out to be a highlight of the trip.
Check out the clock. It was 10:45 PM
