From castles to crosses to the capital - Lithuanian coast to Riga, Latvia

We finally rode first thing in the morning. This is much better than touring somewhere and beginning a ride at 2:00 or 3:00 in the afternoon. We headed off to Palanga through the Seaside Regional Park passing random relics of abandoned Soviet military installations - concrete bunkers and such. It is very forested with acres of land covered with trees about 12-15 inches in diameter. It was easy to imagine soldiers training and stationed here.

In the spirit of entrepreneur-ism, at a number of the parking areas leading into the cycling paths, hiking areas and paths to the Baltic Sea, we often saw a little Smart car with the back outfitted with an espresso machine also towing a small rolling freezer trailer full of ice cream selections. A person would making coffees and sell Magnum bars. Great idea! Why hasn't someone done this here?

We stopped at the Palace of Count Tyszkiewicz which is surrounded by a beautiful botanical garden. The palace is well restored and also houses a large amber museum. 

Grounds of the Tyszkiewicz Palace

Palanga is a beautiful seaside resort where we spread out to eat lunch at our choice of restaurant. All featured fish and outdoor seating surrounded by streams and fountains. At the top of the walkway down to the Baltic, there are benches set up looking out to the water. They full of people  lined up in rows looking at the sea. It seemed odd at first and then, not so much.

After lunch we piled onto the bus and headed to Riga where we will stay for a three nights. On the way we stopped at a pilgrimage site called the Hill of Crosses. This place is really in the middle of nowhere. There are many explanations for how the Hill of Crosses came to be. Some say it was created in three days by the families of soldiers who had died in a battle. Others say it was started by a father who planted a cross in hopes of curing his sick daughter. This is all back int he 14th century. There is also a tradition that says sacred fires were lit here by Pagans. During the Soviet times, planting a cross could get you arrested. The hill was bulldozed at least three times by the Soviets, the last in 1972. They also tried to seal it off and dig ditches so people couldn't get to the hill. People managed to find a way and more and more crosses were placed here. Pope John Paul II visited in 1993 and celebrated Mass here. A Franciscan monastery was built here after his visit. When you come into the parking lot, there is a large area where vendors sell crosses - big and little, ornate and plain. Or, I guess, you can bring your own. Then you walk down a path and see the hill in the distance. When you get up close is when you understand that there are thousands and thousands and thousands of crosses. Believer or not, this is a unique piece of Lithuania. 

After a several hour drive, we arrived in the capital city of Latvia, Riga and the bus driver drove our large bus dragging a trailer full of bikes into the winding streets of Old Town Riga depositing us in a small cobble stone square in front of a church within walking distance of our hotel. 

We are within what remains of the walls of the ancient city and delighted to be in one hotel for three nights. Tomorrow's bike ride is optional and we have opted out, choosing to explore Riga on our own. The group of bikers is great but we have a bit of "group fatigue" and are looking forward to being on our own.